The trees in your yard are a valuable asset and vital part of the community planning so that their beauty will set the desired atmosphere for years to come.  With proper care these trees will grow and thrive providing shade, cooling and year-round beauty.  

For these trees to remain healthy and vigorous, there are maintenance items that need to be observed: 

·        Keep your tree’s root flare free of soil cover.  The trees in front of your home between the street and sidewalk should not have stone edging installed with soil added on top of the root ball.  This practice is very detrimental to tree health and in many cases, causes the tree to lose vigor.  It can also cause death due to bark deterioration.  Edging around trees can contribute to water holding around the tree preventing needed root/air exchange that is essential for healthy root growth.  It also makes it more difficult to provide needed nutrients to roots.   Just remember, tree feeder roots are shallow and they do not like to be covered. 

·        The mulch rings around trees can also be eliminated after the first 2 years.  The rings are there for establishment but once trees are established, rake the mulch rings level and let the grass grow up to the trunk.  If you want to maintain mulch, keep it pulled back from the root flare and do not have more than 2 inches of mulch at anytime.

·        Fertilize your trees now by applying 1/2 pound fertilizer per inch trunk diameter spread evenly from outside root ball to 2 feet past canopy drip line.  Most of your trees are 3 to 4 inch in diameter. 

·        Trees can grow quickly in the spring so check the staking materials on your trees monthly.  Do not let the materials cut into the bark, damaging trees.  If your tree has been in for one year, shake the trunk and if the root ball does not move, it is time to remove all staking materials.  If the root ball is still moving, leave on staking materials but make sure to loosen all ties as needed to prevent damage to branches and tree trunk. 

Do not allow ties to grow into trees!!!

Congrats to our winners!!!

What a fun college basketball season! Something you can’t make up…Virginia ended up taking home the title and so did resident, Meredith Wheeler, for winning the 2019 Pomona NCAA Bracket!!!

Also, a special shout out to all our teens and players on their hard work in putting together the 2nd Annual 3x3 Pomona Basketball Tournament. In the end, the Reign Gang took home the gold but there was so much heart shown on the court that everyone was a winner that day!!!

Pomona Elementary PTO : Polar Bear Plunge 2018

For those of you who are new to the community, we have participated in the Polar Bear Plunge for 3 years now! With the recent weather change this will be fun to watch. Stay tuned for this year’s plunge which will be at Camp Pomona on February 21st at 4:30 pm at Camp Pomona. All proceeds go directly towards the Pomona Elementary PTO!!!


February is the traditional month for love. We rush around all month picking out flowers and chocolate and making reservations at our favorite restaurants to impress the ones we love. And that is great! But, February is also the best month to show love to your yard by getting it ready for spring.

When thinking about where to take your loved ones to eat, remember you can also feed your trees, shrubs, ground covers, ornamental grasses and perennials. If you fertilize your plants with Scott’s Turf Builder for Southern Lawns slow release fertilizer with an analysis of 32-0-10, plants will respond to their good meal just like your loved ones. Fertilize your trees by applying 2 pounds of fertilizer around each tree from tree trunk out to drip line. It is always good to water after fertilizing but fertilizing before a rain will also work.

Before going out with our loved ones, we dress up! This can be a reminder to you to dress up your beds. Pull out all weeds in beds and tree rings and add a double ground, dyed-brown, hardwood much. Maintaining 2 inches of mulch will provide great growing conditions for your plants, reduce water use and make it easier to remove those pesky weeds. Remember, no red mulch in beds. Brown will provide a more natural appearance. You want your beds to look their best.

When thinking what is the best gift to buy your loved ones, I have a suggestion for a gift for your yard. Between February 15 and March 15, apply a pre-emergent weed control to your planting beds and turf. This pre-emergent will help control all spring and early summer weeds. Apply Preen to planting beds and Halts to your turf. As always when applying any product, follow the label directions closely. You will find that this will also be a gift to you as you avoid pulling all those weeds.

Just like with your loved ones, if you take the time to love your yard, it will respond positively to you and you will reap the benefits.

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2018 HOA Annual Meeting

The 2018 HOA Annual meeting was held at Pomona elementary with over 100 residents in attendace. In case you were not able to make the meeting, click HERE for the presentation. Should you have any questions, please contact our General Manager, Donna Grice, at or 281.692.2808.


GARDENING BY THE MOON: Winter Plant Protection

Homeowners are always interested in how to protect plants during winter cold weather where freezing temperatures are expected.  The number one protection and the easiest is to make sure plants have sufficient water in the soil before cold weather arrives.  This can be provided by natural rainfall or if conditions are dry, by using your irrigation system.  Hand watering can also provide moisture if you do not want to run your irrigation system.  No matter how you choose to add water, do so!

By adding water to the soil, this creates a micro-climate that will minimize the affects of the cold weather during short term freezing temperatures.  It is more difficult to cool humid, wet soils than dry soils.  The soils in our area are normally warmer than the cold air temperature so adding extra moisture around plants can help hold the heat in the soil minimizing heat loss and temperature fluctuations.  This will protect the root system of tender, perennial plants.

Covering plants can also reduce heat loss but do not use plastic.  Use burlap, blankets, sheets, fabric tarps or cardboard boxes to help reduce heat loss from soil around plants.  Make sure to stake the covering down so the wind does not wreak havoc.  Remove these materials from around plants as soon as temperatures warm up. 

Container plants can be moved inside but be wary of unwanted pests coming in to the house with the plants.

By providing protection this winter, plant dollars can be saved in replacements in the spring.



Due to all the recent rains, this has created over-watering problems for your trees, shrubs and turf.  If your trees and plants are yellow and if you are experiencing disease problems on your plants, the abundance of rain is contributing to these problems.    Turn your irrigation controller off if you have not already done so and leave it in the off position until the rain stops and your yard has completely dried out.  Below are some important irrigation facts about water usage for your landscape. 

Fact 1 – Water Efficient Landscaping:  The landscaping of your home is a major part of the overall plan of the community.  Plants on the approved plant list are water efficient, well adapted, native Texas plants that perform well in north Texas climatic conditions.   Planting techniques such as soil preparation, drip and spray irrigation and mulching are designed to provide optimum plant growth with reduced irrigation.  Reducing water use in the landscape is a vital part of the overall planning, design and strategy for  residents.

Fact 2 – Water and Oxygen:  All plants need water and oxygen in the root zone to survive.  It is important to balance the use of adequate water for plant growth but also allow time for soil to breath between watering so soil does not become water-logged.  In Texas, more plants are killed from overwatering rather than not enough water.

 Fact 3 – Watering Needs:  Plant water needs vary depending on direct sun exposure, amount of shade, temperature, humidity, wind, soil and rain.  The best way to determine water needs is to watch for plant stress – wilting of leaves and/or yellowing of leaves.  You can also determine water needs by probing the soil to a depth of 2 to 4 inches with your fingers to check for soil moisture. 

Fact 4 – Optimum Water Use:  It is best to water in the early morning hours to avoid plant disease and when water loss through evaporation is minimal.  Do not water between the hours of 10 a.m. and 7 p.m.  When watering, apply water with multiple run times to avoid runoff into streets.   Water as infrequently as possible, but water thoroughly at each application.  Soak the soil to encourage deep root system growth to help plants better tolerate drought conditions and stress due to hot temperatures.  Well rooted plants will use water efficiently stored in the soil.

Fact 5 – Watering of New Landscape:  How new plants are watered will affect how plants survive.  Water guidelines for new plantings should be as follows:

·        Thoroughly water plants after planting.

·        Make sure all plantings are mulched to reduce evaporation of water from around root balls. 

·        Water all newly planted landscaping every other day for the first four weeks.  Run times will vary in each yard due to location and amount of sun or shade.  Soils should be kept moist to a depth of 6 to 12 inches or throughout the root zone for plant establishment.   

·        Transition watering from every other day to two times per week after 4 weeks.  Transition to watering for established landscape as soon as possible.

Fact 6 – Watering of Established Landscape:  Water guidelines for established plantings should be as follows:

·        Turn off your irrigation system during periods of rain.

·        Landscape water use depends upon the climatic conditions and soil moisture.

·        Replenish mulch yearly to reduce evaporation and water use around root systems and planting beds.

·        Water so soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 12 inches so plants are more resilient to drought conditions and stress due to hot temperatures.

·        Check irrigation settings and soil moisture throughout the year and make adjustments as needed depending on plant’s water needs.  

·        Refer to following chart for monthly Controller Settings and Run Times.


The irrigation system will be switched to OFF position October through May and the following run times in those months will only apply during periods of drought.

These suggested settings and run times are general guidelines and may need to be adjusted for individual landscape conditions, soils, rainfall and climatic conditions.  Run times can be broken into multiple run times to prevent runoff.


Run Times

Controller Setting


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run one time every 2 weeks


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run one time every 2 weeks


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run one time every 7-10 days


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run one time every 7-10 days


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 1 or 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 1 or 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 1 or 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 1 or 2 times per week


Spray Heads – 12 -20 minutes

Rotor Heads – 30-45 minutes

Bubbler Heads – 5-10 minutes

Drip – 30-45 minutes

Set to run 1 time every 2 weeks

Note:  The above guidelines are suggestions for a starting point.  Continue to monitor your soil by probing for adequate soil moisture.  If you experience wet or dry areas in your yard, adjust your irrigation system accordingly.   Natural rainfall will affect these guidelines. 

Boo Baskets: You've Been Booed!!!

Boo baskets start this Monday, October 1 so keep an eye on your front door!!!  Getting "boo-ed" is a fun Halloween tradition where a neighbor will leave a fun basket of goodies on another neighbor's door step.  There will be a note on what to do next after you get "boo-ed".  Make sure to share all your fun pics on the private Homeowners Facebookpage.  See below for the print outs in case you need them.  Have fun!!!

Below is what to do once you have been booed! Please make sure to print this sheet AND the We’ve Been Booed sign to place in the basket when you boo someone. Once you’ve been booed, post the sign on your window or door immediately so prevent double booing and to help spread the boo love!

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They are back!  Fall armyworms are marching across Texas and feeding in your turf areas and on many other plants.  They are called armyworms because of the size of the infestations and the way they eat their way across an area.  After hatching, the newly emerged larvae start immediately eating.  The caterpillars range in color from shades of brown, to gray to green or yellow-green.  Distinguishing characteristics are a whitish inverted i between the eyes and whitish strips on the head.  They appear first on the tips of the grass blades and if not detected, they eat through the grass.  Initial damage resembles drought but on closer inspection, you can tell the grass has been defoliated with only stems remaining and you can see the caterpillars.

To control, apply a liquid or granular turf insecticide that has armyworms on the label and can be purchased from any of the local garden shops.  The liquid control can be applied with a hose on sprayer. The granular product can be spread with a fertilizer spreader.   Products to look for include Ortho Bug B Gon (liquid or granular), Spectracide Insect Killer for Lawns (granular or liquid), Sevin (liquid or granular) or for organic control, apply Neem Oil or Bacillus Thurengiensis  (BT).  Follow all label instructions when applying.  If these armyworms are eating your vegetable garden, make sure to use a product labeled for use on vegetables.

If damage is present, after treating, go ahead and fertilize to encourage recovery.

These armyworms eat and move through an area quickly, so be on alert!



Now along comes another lawn-eating insect – grubworms.  This insect is stealthier because it is working under your turf.  Grubworms are the larvae stage of that late spring, early summer, pesky June beetle that swarms around your lights.  When you see them spinning on the ground, they are actually working their way down into the soil through the grass so they can lay their eggs.  These eggs hatch and turn into root-eating grubworms.  As they eat their way through your lawn, the grass turns brown because the grubs have eaten the roots.  If grubworms are present, you can walk across your lawn and feel it slipping under your feet, much like newly laid sod.  In fact, you can reach down and pull up your sod just like it was new. 

For control of grubworms, apply a granular lawn grub control product.  There are several on the market and that can be purchased at your local garden supply store.  Follow all label directions when applying.  If you have not yet fertilized your turf, do so now to help with recovery from the damage.  If the rain stops, water your lawn to help it regrow roots before it goes into dormancy. 

For some of you this has been a double whammy with the armyworms and grubworms.  The good news is that they can be controlled.  Continue to monitor your turf and treat when you find these pests!

grub worms.jpg


GARDENING BY THE MOON: Fall Landscape Activities

October is a good month for working on your landscape.  The weather is cooler and more inviting to do some needed annual chores without suffering a heat stroke!. 


Now is the time to add mulch to your shrub beds and tree wells to help control weeds and conserve moisture for your plants during the winter cold, dehydrating winds.  There are many different kinds of mulch and I know everyone has a preference.  My preference is the brown dyed mulch.  It holds up very well in the landscape and it keeps color longer for a fresher appearance.  In bare bed areas, add 2 inches of mulch and in areas where you already have mulch, add no more than 1 inch.  Treat with a pre-emergent weed control after mulching to help prevent weeds in the spring.  You can apply Preem, Pendimethalin, or Halts.  Apply as per label and remember, you cannot grow seeded plants in the areas where a pre-emergent has been applied. 

Removing Dead Wood from Trees and Shrubs

Before leaf drop, remove all dead wood from your trees and shrubs.  Use a razor saw for large branch removal.  If branches are higher in the tree, use a pole pruner.   Hand pruners can be used for small branch removal.  Make all cutes even or at the shoulder of the branch.  Absolutely do not leave stubs when removing branches.  Also do not tear the bark when pruning.

dr moon october.jpg

Tree Fertilization

Fertilize trees with a granular fertilizer.  Apply ¼ to ½ pound of fertilizer per inch trunk diameter.  Spread the fertilizer evening from trunk of tree to 3 feet past the drip line of the tree.  Water fertilizer in after applying.

Tech Talks with Brazoria County Sheriff's Department

Last weekend Brazoria County Sheriff's Department came to our community and discussed how to be aware of new technology apps that might have "hidden" agendas.  Click on the button below to see the full presentation.  Should you have any questions, you are welcome to contact Investigator Kent Nielsen at


In your lawn and beds, you may be thinking that because we are heading into fall, pesky
weeds will not be a problem. This is a big mistake! Weeds that are a problem in the spring
and early summer, are still in the soil in the fall just waiting to germinate again this fall and
start growing vigorously in the spring. Dandelion and henbit are two of the biggest culprits.

The best way to prevent these weeds next year is to apply a pre-emergent weed control
between September 15 and October 15 in your turf and bed areas.
If you follow the below schedule for pre-emergent weed control and fertilization, you will
eventually win the battle with weeds and your weed problem will lessen.
September 15 – Apply a pre-emergent weed control such as Preen or Halts to beds and turf
February 15 – (I know it is winter but this is still important!) Apply a pre-emergent weed
control such as Preen or Halts to beds and turf areas.
May 15 - Apply a pre-emergent weed control such as Preen or Halts to beds and turf areas.

If you have any breakthrough weeds in your turf, you can treat with Weed Control for
Southern Grasses. Just follow the label recommendations for rates and timing. For bed
areas, hand remove any residual weeds.
Fertilize your turf and beds 4 times per year to encourage healthy, vigorous growth of your
plant materials. Use a slow-release fertilizer that has a high first number on the fertilizer
All the above materials can be purchased at a local garden store, Home Depot or Lowes.
Don’t give up the fight! You can win by following the above guidelines.

Weed control dr moon.JPG


All the recent heat advisories have not only been hard for each of us, but those high temperatures have been creating harsh conditions for all of your trees, shrubs, container plants and turf.  All plants respond to this by using more water.  To counteract these harsh conditions for your plant material and especially if you have new plantings, is to provide extra water!

Hand watering can be a very effective way of adding extra water effeciently to your plants.  You can add water only where needed without wasting a large volume of water.  Focus on watering trees, shrubs and container plantings first.  Respond by adding extra water as soon as you see wilting or you observe the first sign of burned leaves to prevent leaf scorch. 

Turf can tolerate and recover from drought easier than your other plants but even hand watering can benefit turf if you have the patience to stand out in your yard with a water hose and provide extra water.

Good luck!  There can be another 6 to 8 weeks of this hot weather, but fall is coming with cooler weather, hopefully.  However, this is Texas!!!


Cardboard Boat Race Boat Building Basics

If you are reading this you are considering the challenge of entering the Pomona Cardboard Boat Race! Be sure to check out the list of allowed materials before beginning construction. Other than that, we encourage you to get creative, both with your design and your decorations or theme. Remember we have four awards: Speed, Design/Creativity, Team Spirit, and the Titanic (for the best and most dramatic sinking) award. Most of all: HAVE FUN!!

CONSTRUCTION Allowed Materials

·         Corrugated cardboard from appliance or grocery stores

·         Cardboard “blocks” from furniture stores

·         Cardboard tubes from carpet/linoleum stores

·         Fastening material - Duct or masking tape, Liquid nails adhesive, Latex paint, varnish

Materials NOT Allowed

·         Wood

·         Styrofoam

·         Plastic sheathing

·         Sona-tubes or coated cardboard

·         Silicone, wax or tar

·         Caulking Compounds

·         Metal

·         Staple, clamps or screws

The entire boat must be built of cardboard o Only exceptions are the paddles and decorations o Decorations are allowed – as long as they don’t affect structural strength or buoyancy • Use cardboard boxes, “blocks” or carpet tubes • No pre-treated cardboard allowed • No wood, plastic, or fiberglass • No caulking compounds or two-part/mixed adhesives • No wrapping in duct tape, plastic or fiberglass • Waterproof the boat with varnish, paint or polyurethane • The crew compartment cannot be enclosed • Every crew member must wear a life jacket • Costumes are allowed to enhance your theme

DESIGN TIPS Set your goal: Design, Speed, Looks, all three??? Sketch out your design Flat bottoms, sit-to-paddle, are the easiest Rudders help keep you straight but make turning difficult and add complexity to your design Long boats go fast but are harder to turn Short boats are difficult to keep straight Reinforce the area where you sit or kneel Best Length: 8-12 feet Best Height: 18”

Cardboard Boat Races 055.jpg


The following perennials, annuals and ornamental grasses will add color and interest to your yard and garden this summer. 


1.      Lavender – Hardy perennial in the mint family providing deep purple color,  blooms spring to fall, grows 12-18 inches in height, thrives in full sun, fragrance is a deterrent to small rodents

2.      Pink Skullcap – Hardy perennial with small leaves and pink flowers; blooms spring to fall, grows 8 to 10 inches in height, loves the Texas sun and is drought resistant, great in rock gardens or as a border planting

3.      Turk’s Cap – Hardy perennial that is heat and drought resistant, small red flowers in summer through fall, can grow up to 3 feet in height, attractive butterflies

4.      Salvia ‘May Night’ or ‘Rose Marvel’ – Hardy perennial that is heat and drought resistant, this variety has deep purple blooms with silvery gray foliage, blooms summer to fall, attractive to butterflies and resistant to rabbits

5.      Rudbeckia ‘Goldsturm’ – Native Texas perennial, Goldsturm is a compact variety of Black-eyed Susan, loves the sun, deep gold daisy-like bloom with brown center, blooms throughout the summer, grows up to 3 feet in height, showy color for mass planting or planted with other perennials

Honorable Mentions:  Butterfly Bush, Lantana, Katie Ruellia, Purple Coneflower,  Autumn Joy Sedum, Angelina Sedum, Russian Sage


1.      Angelonia – Vigorous grower in Texas sun, drought resistant, spiky bloom comes in a variety of colors from white to purple and can be planted as a mix, grows 12 to 14 inches in height, blooms summer into fall

2.      Cora Vinca – Flowers profusely from summer into fall, comes in many solid colors and mixes, mounds to a height of 12 to 14 inches, Cora variety is resistant to root disease

3.      Scaevola – Heat and drought tolerant, blooms can be pink, purple or white, low growing so great as a border planting or spilling over the edge of a container

4.      Zinnia – This hardy annual comes in a variety of colors mixes and heights depending upon variety, east to grow and always a favorite in the Texas garden, blooms summer into fall

5.      Mandevilla or Dipladenia – Beautiful and graceful vining annual, blooms can be white, pink or red, great for planting in beds, containers or fences, needs some protection from late afternoon sun

Honorable Mentions:  Marigolds, Salvia, Hibiscus, Pentas, Portulaca (Rose Moss)


1.      Foxtail or Asparagus Fern– Foxtail fern adds a spiky green interest  and Asparagus fern adds a wispy green interest to the landscape when mixed with colorful annuals or perennials, vigorous grower, moderately drought tolerant

2.      Strapleaf Caladiums – Strapleaf varieties can be planted in sun areas, variety of leaf colors, can be planted from bulbs in early summer

3.      Sweet Potato Vine – Vigorous grower that will require trimming, thrives in Texas sun and very drought resistant, lime green and deep purple foliage makes a big impact in the landscape for few dollars

4.      Sun Coleus – Easy to grow annual that also provides impact to your landscape for few dollars, for sun areas plant the sun varieties, offers stunning colored foliage in a variety of colors

5.      Purple Fountain Grass – Great background plant due to 3’ height, provides graceful purple foliage with a lighter purple bloom, requires little maintenance

Honorable Mentions:  Dianella (Flax Lily), Persian Shield, Creeping Jenny, Licorice Plant


1.      Miscanthus – This grass is a hardy perennial that his both heat and drought resistant, narrow green or variegated leaves, blooms make a bold fall statement in the landscape, grows up to 3 feet in height

2.      Mexican Feather Grass – This grass is both heat and drought resistant, wispy green color in the spring turning to a golden brown in the fall, easy to grow and requires little maintenance, grows up to 2 feet in height

3.      Muhly Grass – Hardy perennial that is heat and drought resistant, Regal Mist variety provides a beautiful, feathery pink bloom in the fall, easy to grow with little maintenance required, can grow up to 4 feet in height

4.      Inland Sea Oats – Hardy perennial grows well in shade, partial sun or sun areas, oat-like seed heads turn brown during summer and fall, birds enjoy eating seed heads, can grow up to 2 feet in height

5.      Blue Love Grass – Hardy Texas perennial that is very drought tolerant, blue, narrow, foliage and tan seed heads provide interest throughout the year; grows up to 2 feet in height


New Officer Positions for PTAB

Join me in congratulating our 2018-2019 officer positions for the Pomona Teen Advisory Board!!!

President: Kaley Watson
Vice President: Jacob Johnson
Historian: Trinity Grays
Secretary: Ava Vasquez

congrats colorful.jpg


The newly planted trees at Pomona need special care to encourage health and vigor. 

Newly Planted Trees:

·         Fertilize to encourage root growth that in turn creates healthy branch and leaf growth.  Even though you are fertilizing your lawn, fertilize the newly planted trees for the first 3 years and even longer if trees are not growing vigorously.    Fertilize these trees 3 times per year with Milorganite Fertilizer 6-4-0.  This fertilizer is a slow release fertilizer with 6% nitrogen that is 85% non-soluble.  It also contains 4% phosphorous, 2.5% iron and the calcium in the Milorganite helps to neutralize the sodium in alkaline soils.  Apply this fertilizer to new trees 3 times a year in February, May and August.  Apply ½ pound of the fertilizer per inch trunk diameter.  To determine diameter, measure your tree 6 inches above soil surface.  Spread the fertilizer evenly from the trunk of the tree out 2 feet past the drip line of the tree.

·         Newly planted trees that have been planted for a length of time have guy wires around the trunks that are cutting into the bark of the tree.   This can damage the trees so check any staked trees in your yard.  If you find the wires cutting into the bark, remove the wires before further damage occurs.  If guy wires are not causing a problem at this time, be aware and monitor often.  Newly planted trees grow quickly so these wires can become a problem quicker than you might think!

·         Remove dead wood from newly planted trees.  By keeping dead wood removed, you can better monitor the health of the tree by observing for more dead wood. 

·         Water newly planted trees as needed but do not overwater.  Water 1 time every 10 days in winter, 1 time every 7 days in fall and spring and 2 times every 7 days during the summer. 

Take special care of all of your trees.  They are important to the beauty of your landscape.  If you take care of your trees, they will pay you back with beauty and a shady retreat during the summer.